Today we headed out with Nadia and the driver about 85 kilometers north of Split, to Krka National Park, a green world apart from the sunlit stone towns of the Dalmatian coast. The drive takes roughly an hour and fifteen minutes. There, the Krka River tumbles over natural travertine terraces, breaking into countless cascades amid lush trees and clear water.
At Skradinski buk, the park’s best-known waterfall, wooden walkways wind above streams and pools, bringing you close to the rush and shimmer of the water—a place to slow down and let the scenery take over.
We boarded the Nedica, a handsome white excursion boat with polished dark-wood trim, and a shaded upper deck. From the water, we could take in Krka’s quiet green banks and rocky hills.
Later that day, after a relaxing dinner in Split, we stopped at Gelateria Emiliano, where a long line of people outside told its own story—and may have made the nearby gelato shops a little envious.
Inside, the bright, immaculate shop had gleaming white counters, glass cases, and a wall of hexagonal panels displaying the flavors. Crystal chandeliers hung overhead, adding a touch of unexpected elegance to the lively scene.
There was plenty to choose from, from familiar flavors such as strawberry, pistachio, and hazelnut to more unusual combinations, including ricotta with figs and Greek yogurt with mango and passion fruit. The display was as tempting as the menu, but the real pleasure was finally choosing and taking that first bite. Gelato is more than dessert; it is a happy experience. There was no grumpy gelato eater a foot.
I chose Vanilla Lampone—vanilla and raspberry—and it was gelato at its finest.
This was, by leaps and bounds, the best gelato I’d ever had. A generous curl of pale, creamy vanilla raspberry rose above the crisp, golden waffle cone, swirled with pink raspberry and dotted with dark pieces of fruit. The flavor was unlike any I’d tasted—bright, rich, and utterly memorable.
The cone was no afterthought: fresh, crisp, and lightly sweet, it was delicious down to the last bite. Together, they were perfect. I wanted to make it last, but it disappeared far too quickly. Another notch in the belt.
Beth chose the Cioccolato monorigine, and also said it was the best she ever had.
If you’re a serious gelato lover—and willing to loosen your belt for the sake of great taste—this is the place to go.
